The
Eighties, internationalization of LEONARD
The man is a creator, an inventor and he is also an entrepreneur conquering the fashion world with his flowers. After successfully entering Japanese market in 1969, LEONARD entered the New York fashion market in 1974. Since 1975, these successes have been accompanied by collections produced under licence such as ties, silk scarves, tablelinen (in 1979) for which he invented reversible plates. In 1985 his licences were enlarged with leather goods, glasses, watches, jewellery whilst LEONARD launched the interior decorative fabrics with Maison LEONARD, the men's collections in 1992 and then LEONARD jeans in 1998.
LEONARD has constantly expanded, opening boutiques around the world, the first having been opened in Paris in 1970. There are now 121 boutiques around the world.
ill. : Bowl in LEONARD porcelain made by Hutschenreuther. (© Musée des Tissus, All rights reserved)
The man is a creator, an inventor and he is also an entrepreneur conquering the fashion world with his flowers. After successfully entering Japanese market in 1969, LEONARD entered the New York fashion market in 1974. Since 1975, these successes have been accompanied by collections produced under licence such as ties, silk scarves, tablelinen (in 1979) for which he invented reversible plates. In 1985 his licences were enlarged with leather goods, glasses, watches, jewellery whilst LEONARD launched the interior decorative fabrics with Maison LEONARD, the men's collections in 1992 and then LEONARD jeans in 1998.
LEONARD has constantly expanded, opening boutiques around the world, the first having been opened in Paris in 1970. There are now 121 boutiques around the world.
ill. : Bowl in LEONARD porcelain made by Hutschenreuther. (© Musée des Tissus, All rights reserved)
The
1990s, LEONARD and the French luxury industry
To enable this expansion and with the financial help of Antonio Ratti, Tribouillard bought out LEONARD's Company to Jacques Leonard in 1987. He then became President Director General of the Company. Three years later, an exclusive LEONARD shop was opened at 48 Rue Fauboug St Honore and Léonard took its place amongst the biggest luxury houses of Paris.
LEONARD has been a member since 1994 of the Fédération Française de Couture et du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers and Créateurs de Mode. The company's headquarters are located at rue Pierre 1er de Serbie, in the golden triangle and it presents its yearly collections at the Carrousel du Louvre.
China opened its doors to Tribouillard in 1992 by inviting him to participate in the Shanghai Fashion week. The Chinese have also bestowed on him the Honoris Causa of the University of Shanghai. LEONARD boutiques have multiplied in Asia. Notably in Bangkok, Macau in 1997, Bejing in 1999, Hong Kong in 2002, Shanghai 2005. However, Tribouillard has also set his sights on Eastern Europe even as far as Russia where he presented a collection in 1998. LEONARD exports 85% of its products. As a result, Tribouillard has been President of the Commission Art Création Diffusion du Conseil du Commerce Extérieur since 1996.
ill. : Short dress Véronèse, pattern Nabuco, Spring-Summer 1993. (© Musée des Tissus, All rights reserved)
To enable this expansion and with the financial help of Antonio Ratti, Tribouillard bought out LEONARD's Company to Jacques Leonard in 1987. He then became President Director General of the Company. Three years later, an exclusive LEONARD shop was opened at 48 Rue Fauboug St Honore and Léonard took its place amongst the biggest luxury houses of Paris.
LEONARD has been a member since 1994 of the Fédération Française de Couture et du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers and Créateurs de Mode. The company's headquarters are located at rue Pierre 1er de Serbie, in the golden triangle and it presents its yearly collections at the Carrousel du Louvre.
China opened its doors to Tribouillard in 1992 by inviting him to participate in the Shanghai Fashion week. The Chinese have also bestowed on him the Honoris Causa of the University of Shanghai. LEONARD boutiques have multiplied in Asia. Notably in Bangkok, Macau in 1997, Bejing in 1999, Hong Kong in 2002, Shanghai 2005. However, Tribouillard has also set his sights on Eastern Europe even as far as Russia where he presented a collection in 1998. LEONARD exports 85% of its products. As a result, Tribouillard has been President of the Commission Art Création Diffusion du Conseil du Commerce Extérieur since 1996.
ill. : Short dress Véronèse, pattern Nabuco, Spring-Summer 1993. (© Musée des Tissus, All rights reserved)
Bibliography
Baudot François, Poiret, Paris, 1997.
Benaïm Laurence, Grès, Paris, 1999.
Benoît Julien, L'Indicateur de la Fabrique de Soierie, des Industries qui s'y rattachent et du commerce des tissus, Lyon, 1866.
Boucher François, Histoire du costume, Paris ,1965.
Brano Mat., L'Indicateur des Soieries et Soies en général, Lyon, 1873.
Caudy Nathalie, La photogravure textile et l'impression sur étoffes en Nord-Isère, Ecomusée Nord Dauphiné, 1992.
Cayez Pierre, Métiers Jacquard et hauts fourneaux, aux origines de l'industrie lyonnaise, Lyon, 1978.
Cayez Pierre, Crises et croissance de l'industrie lyonnaise. 1850-1900, Lyon, 1977.
Cesadio Mariuccia, Emiliano Pucci, Paris, 1998.
Corbière Comte, Rapport sur les produits de l'industrie française, Paris, 1824.
Dictionnaire de la mode au XXe siècle, Paris, 1996.
Debray Régis, Hugues Patrice (dir.), Dictionnaire culturel du Tissu, Paris, 2005.
Dépierre Joseph, L'impression sur tissus spécialement l'impression à la main à travers les âges et dans les divers pays, Mulhouse, 1910.
Dupin Charles, Rapport du jury central sur les produits de l'industrie française exposés en 1844, Paris, 1844.
Fiette Alexandre, Mode, Passion et collection, le regard d'une femme, Musée d'Art et d'Histoire, Genève, 2003.
Givry Valérie de, L'inspiration artistique des créateurs de mode, Paris, 1988.
Lang Abigail S., Mode et Contre-Mode. Une anthologie de MOntaigne à Perce, Paris, 1996-2000.
Müller Florence, Art et mode, Paris, 1999.
de Osma Guillermo, Mariano Fortuny, his life and work, London, 1980.
Jones Terry, Hair Avril, Fashion noax. ID Selects the world's 150 most important designers, Cologne, 2002.
Baudot François, Poiret, Paris, 1997.
Benaïm Laurence, Grès, Paris, 1999.
Benoît Julien, L'Indicateur de la Fabrique de Soierie, des Industries qui s'y rattachent et du commerce des tissus, Lyon, 1866.
Boucher François, Histoire du costume, Paris ,1965.
Brano Mat., L'Indicateur des Soieries et Soies en général, Lyon, 1873.
Caudy Nathalie, La photogravure textile et l'impression sur étoffes en Nord-Isère, Ecomusée Nord Dauphiné, 1992.
Cayez Pierre, Métiers Jacquard et hauts fourneaux, aux origines de l'industrie lyonnaise, Lyon, 1978.
Cayez Pierre, Crises et croissance de l'industrie lyonnaise. 1850-1900, Lyon, 1977.
Cesadio Mariuccia, Emiliano Pucci, Paris, 1998.
Corbière Comte, Rapport sur les produits de l'industrie française, Paris, 1824.
Dictionnaire de la mode au XXe siècle, Paris, 1996.
Debray Régis, Hugues Patrice (dir.), Dictionnaire culturel du Tissu, Paris, 2005.
Dépierre Joseph, L'impression sur tissus spécialement l'impression à la main à travers les âges et dans les divers pays, Mulhouse, 1910.
Dupin Charles, Rapport du jury central sur les produits de l'industrie française exposés en 1844, Paris, 1844.
Fiette Alexandre, Mode, Passion et collection, le regard d'une femme, Musée d'Art et d'Histoire, Genève, 2003.
Givry Valérie de, L'inspiration artistique des créateurs de mode, Paris, 1988.
Lang Abigail S., Mode et Contre-Mode. Une anthologie de MOntaigne à Perce, Paris, 1996-2000.
Müller Florence, Art et mode, Paris, 1999.
de Osma Guillermo, Mariano Fortuny, his life and work, London, 1980.
Jones Terry, Hair Avril, Fashion noax. ID Selects the world's 150 most important designers, Cologne, 2002.
Catalogs
of exhibition
Mariano Fortuny, Musée des Tissus de Lyon, 1980.
Hommage à Balenciaga, Musée des Tissus de Lyon, 1986.
Paquin, 1891 - 1956, une rétrospective de 60 ans de Haute couture,
Musée des Tissus de Lyon, 1990.
Madeleine Vionnet, les années d'innovation, Musée des
Tissus de Lyon, 1994.
Olivier Lapidus, Musée des Tissus de Lyon, 1998.
Touches d'exotisme. 14e - 20e siècles, Paris, UCAD, 1998.
Genion y figura. La influenca de la cultura espanola en la mode, Madrid,
2005.
Review
Beauté
Cahiers du CIBA (en particulier n°4, 1971, Articles maille)
Fémina
Figaro Magazine
Industrie textile
Journal du Textile
Madame Figaro
Moniteur de la Maille
Montagne
Revue du Comité Colbert
Tribune des Arts
Vie des métiers, modes et textiles
ill. : Short dress Véronèse,
pattern Nabuco, Spring-Summer 1993 (© Musée des Tissus,
All rights reserved)
The
Seventies, first collections, first perfume
Strengthened by this success, Tribouillard launched his first collection of garments in silk jersey in 1968. This was a fashion revolution. The fabric was crease resistant, supple and reflected the joie de vivre of the 1960's. The first boutique was also opened in Paris during this periode.
The following year, 1969, was an eventful one for LEONARD. LEONARD Parfums was launched as was LEONARD Fashion. Tribouillard then introduced his collections to Italy, launched LEONARD Italy, in Milan.
ill. : Short dress Geisha, fully-fashionned process, pattern Negus, Spring-Summer 2001. (© Musée des Tissus, All rights reserved)
The
Sixties and the fully fashioned processStrengthened by this success, Tribouillard launched his first collection of garments in silk jersey in 1968. This was a fashion revolution. The fabric was crease resistant, supple and reflected the joie de vivre of the 1960's. The first boutique was also opened in Paris during this periode.
The following year, 1969, was an eventful one for LEONARD. LEONARD Parfums was launched as was LEONARD Fashion. Tribouillard then introduced his collections to Italy, launched LEONARD Italy, in Milan.
ill. : Short dress Geisha, fully-fashionned process, pattern Negus, Spring-Summer 2001. (© Musée des Tissus, All rights reserved)
Léonard is a fashion label that is undeniably linked with printed fabrics and with flowers, in particular the orchid.
It all started in 1958 when Daniel Tribouillard, " the man behind the flowers" became the General Director and the Artistic Director of the young Leonard fashion company that had been founded by Jacques Léonard in 1943.
In 1960 Tribouillard invented the "fully fashion" printed pullovers which he patented for Léonard. It was immediately successful and the biggest fashion houses such as Dior, Lanvin, Hermes seized this product that the chic women of the 1960's were crazy about. Two years later, just outside Paris, a factory which employed 350 workers was founded
where some 10.000 pullovers per month were made.
ill. : Daniel Tribouillard, C.E.O. LEONARD (© Léonard. All rights reserved).
