LEONARD
and Asia
He also undertook his first visit to Japan and this was to become, after France, his second country, his second culture. From this moment on, there was a special connection between LEONARD and Japan which has been affirmed in the resounding successes he has had with his collections there. The influence of Japan has had on LEONARD designs can be seen in the repeated use of the orchid, symmetrical " flowers of the sea ", geometric designs of stylised foliage, and of images reminiscent of Japanese prints which so fascinated the painters of the latter half of the 19th century. To these forms are added colours in the constant search for the perfect equilibrium.
The respect that LEONARD has for Japan is also reciprocated. With 106 boutiques in Japan, Tribouillard is the only westerner in 2.642 years of history to have had the precious right to the secret of making traditional Japanese kimonos, when in 1983 Japan asked him to design a line of kimonos under the LEONARD label.
As a result, Tribouillard immersed himself in studying the symbolism of Japanese flowers and presented in 1982 the first collection of kimonos. He was immediately successful, the press was completely seduced and Japanese culture was enriched with a touch of the West.
ill. : Trousers Kimono, pattern Ikebana, Spring-Summer 1992. (© Musée des Tissus, All rights reserved)
He also undertook his first visit to Japan and this was to become, after France, his second country, his second culture. From this moment on, there was a special connection between LEONARD and Japan which has been affirmed in the resounding successes he has had with his collections there. The influence of Japan has had on LEONARD designs can be seen in the repeated use of the orchid, symmetrical " flowers of the sea ", geometric designs of stylised foliage, and of images reminiscent of Japanese prints which so fascinated the painters of the latter half of the 19th century. To these forms are added colours in the constant search for the perfect equilibrium.
The respect that LEONARD has for Japan is also reciprocated. With 106 boutiques in Japan, Tribouillard is the only westerner in 2.642 years of history to have had the precious right to the secret of making traditional Japanese kimonos, when in 1983 Japan asked him to design a line of kimonos under the LEONARD label.
As a result, Tribouillard immersed himself in studying the symbolism of Japanese flowers and presented in 1982 the first collection of kimonos. He was immediately successful, the press was completely seduced and Japanese culture was enriched with a touch of the West.
ill. : Trousers Kimono, pattern Ikebana, Spring-Summer 1992. (© Musée des Tissus, All rights reserved)
LEONARD
and the total look
The total look comes from the multiple variations of the art of LEONARD
The colours change, as the treatment of the printed design, which is sometimes pointed out by embroideries but the starting point remains the drawing.
ill. : Daniel Tribouillard introduces the Rubis series. (© Léonard. All rights reserved)
The total look comes from the multiple variations of the art of LEONARD
The colours change, as the treatment of the printed design, which is sometimes pointed out by embroideries but the starting point remains the drawing.
ill. : Daniel Tribouillard introduces the Rubis series. (© Léonard. All rights reserved)
LEONARD
and the flowers
The world of Tribouillard is a garden of dreams filled with oriental flowers, in particular with orchids, his favourite flower which has become the trademark of the LEONARD label since its creation. The LEONARD woman is one which adores flowers and each year she returns to LEONARD for its latest creations. Tribouillard works like an artist, juxtaposing and mixing colours, embracing the colour theories of Chevreul, reinventing the light in pure lines.
He is passionate for flowers but he is also influenced by Op Art, black and white contrasts, the geometry of Mexican and Coptic art and images of safari animals.
ill. : Short long-line bra dress , pattern Gardenia, Spring-Summer 1986. (© Musée des Tissus. All rights reserved).
The world of Tribouillard is a garden of dreams filled with oriental flowers, in particular with orchids, his favourite flower which has become the trademark of the LEONARD label since its creation. The LEONARD woman is one which adores flowers and each year she returns to LEONARD for its latest creations. Tribouillard works like an artist, juxtaposing and mixing colours, embracing the colour theories of Chevreul, reinventing the light in pure lines.
He is passionate for flowers but he is also influenced by Op Art, black and white contrasts, the geometry of Mexican and Coptic art and images of safari animals.
ill. : Short long-line bra dress , pattern Gardenia, Spring-Summer 1986. (© Musée des Tissus. All rights reserved).
LEONARD
and the big cats
Animal prints also belong to the LEONARD history and can be considered as a genuine maker's label. The LEONARD animal dresses are diverse and original from the pull fully fashioned with panther motives to the dress with panther elements printed in blue.
ill. : Big cats printing tie. (© Musée des Tissus. All rights reserved).
Animal prints also belong to the LEONARD history and can be considered as a genuine maker's label. The LEONARD animal dresses are diverse and original from the pull fully fashioned with panther motives to the dress with panther elements printed in blue.
ill. : Big cats printing tie. (© Musée des Tissus. All rights reserved).
The
singularity of LEONARD, create like an artist
Daniel Tribouillard is not a fashion designer who draws dresses but an artist whose works of art become dresses.
He thinks his drawings independently of dresses which result from several printed silk panels. The woman who wears a dress of Leonard wears a painting on silk unique since resulting from an exclusive drawing.
Daniel Tribouillard uses and optimizes the traditional techniques of "à la Lyonnaise" printing to renew his creations and search new visual effects as with fabrics.
Printing techniques for fashion
Fabrics used by Daniel Tribouillard for the dresses draws are printed according to the "à la lyonnaise" printing process which requires frames.
Two main steps are necessary for his implementation : the engraving and the printing process.
The engraving process : "mise en gravure", the realization of the plates, implementation of the frames. After, the pattern of the plate is transferred on the gauze. It is said light exposure. Then the drawing is printed on a blotter called "empreinte".Finally, when ready, frames are delivered to the printing company.
The printing process : bet on the table of the calico, succession of the frames, drying, finishing and washing process.
In 1964, Daniel Tribouillard invented and registered the fully fashioned printing process which consists in printing in form and by the metre knit pullovers.
Since the 1970s, Daniel Tribouillard has been printing silk jersey according to the technique called "coupé-cousu" : the printing process still consists in panels in uninterrupted fabric. In 1976 Daniel Tribouillard invented the silkover fully fashioned, a simple association between the pullover and the "carré de soie". Finally in 1991 the patent of the reversible necktie is registered.
Daniel Tribouillard is not a fashion designer who draws dresses but an artist whose works of art become dresses.
He thinks his drawings independently of dresses which result from several printed silk panels. The woman who wears a dress of Leonard wears a painting on silk unique since resulting from an exclusive drawing.
Daniel Tribouillard uses and optimizes the traditional techniques of "à la Lyonnaise" printing to renew his creations and search new visual effects as with fabrics.
Printing techniques for fashion
Fabrics used by Daniel Tribouillard for the dresses draws are printed according to the "à la lyonnaise" printing process which requires frames.
Two main steps are necessary for his implementation : the engraving and the printing process.
The engraving process : "mise en gravure", the realization of the plates, implementation of the frames. After, the pattern of the plate is transferred on the gauze. It is said light exposure. Then the drawing is printed on a blotter called "empreinte".Finally, when ready, frames are delivered to the printing company.
The printing process : bet on the table of the calico, succession of the frames, drying, finishing and washing process.
In 1964, Daniel Tribouillard invented and registered the fully fashioned printing process which consists in printing in form and by the metre knit pullovers.
Since the 1970s, Daniel Tribouillard has been printing silk jersey according to the technique called "coupé-cousu" : the printing process still consists in panels in uninterrupted fabric. In 1976 Daniel Tribouillard invented the silkover fully fashioned, a simple association between the pullover and the "carré de soie". Finally in 1991 the patent of the reversible necktie is registered.
History of the printing industry
in Lyons and in the region of Lyons
From the end of the 18th century, the printing industry has been
developing in the Rhône-Alpes region. The different companies
are located around Lyons since the beginning of the 19th century.
The reports of the Exhibitions of the Products of the National Industry
(Expositions des Produits de l'Industrie Nationale), then those of
the World Fairs give an amount of the talents of the Lyons fabric
printers as Sandoz or Jandin-Duval especially for the manufacturing
of scarves. They benefited from a great reputation which several firms
working for LEONARD have even today, like Ateliers A. S., P. R. B.
and Viannay at Villeurbanne or Cedric Brochier Soieries.
The
other region for the printing industry is the North Isère where
they are set up since the middle of the 1840s. From the middle of
the 19th century, firms are established in Bourgoin-Jallieu but depended
on head quarters based in Lyons, such as the company Dolbeau who generalized
the "à la Lyonnaise" printing techniques from 1928.
In the years that follow the Second World War, famous silk companies
commercialized printed fabrics for the Haute Couture. LEONARD was
the first company from the 1960s to work with Gandit, Grand Lemps
(SIEGL), Dobleau, Brunet-Lecomte, Mermoz.
ill. : Pattern Nymphéa, Spring-Summer 1993.
(© Musée des Tissus. All rights reserved)
LEONARD
of today and yesterday : permanence and evolution
The LEONARD's style is unique and peculiar. It is identified by many recurrent patterns like geometrical drawings inspired at the same time by Coptic art and Aztec art whose geometrical and symmetrical compositions constitute a significant example.
ill. : Detail of short dress Aloès, pattern Mandchou, Spring-Summer 1997-1998. (© Musée des Tissus. All rights reserved).
The LEONARD's style is unique and peculiar. It is identified by many recurrent patterns like geometrical drawings inspired at the same time by Coptic art and Aztec art whose geometrical and symmetrical compositions constitute a significant example.
ill. : Detail of short dress Aloès, pattern Mandchou, Spring-Summer 1997-1998. (© Musée des Tissus. All rights reserved).
Daniel
Tribouillard, the success story of a business man
In 1954, Daniel Tribouillard joined the firm Jacques LEONARD, specialized in creation and marketing of fabrics for the Haute-Couture.
In 1958, Jacques Léonard named him Managing Director and Artistic Director of the newly founded firm LEONARD FASHION which Daniel Tribouillard specialized in the top of the range ready-to-wear.
The young firm is launched thanks to the invention of the fully-fashioned technique, a process allowing to print knit, renowned unprintable pullovers, which had been amazingly successful from the end of the 1950s.
Women are appealed by his drawings and the orchid becomes progressively the emblem of the company.
At the beginning of the 1970s he had the idea to print silk jersey whose stretch, uncrushability and lightness watched the expectations of the modern woman worldwide, especially in Asia and in Japan where he created a collection of kimonos in 1984.
In 1987, Daniel Tribouillard became the Chief Executive Officer of LEONARD and gave a boost to (stimulated) the company with the help of the Italian firm Ratti.
In 1992, he worked out a line of clothes for men and is the first western couturier to organize a fashion parade in Shanghaï where he is named Honoris Causa Professor of the University.
In 1994, LEONARD entered the French confederation of dress making ready-to-wear and fashion designers (Fédération Française de la couture, du prêt-à-porter et des créateurs de mode) and organized the first fashion parade in the Carroussel of the Louvre.
In 1996, he met Johnny Hallyday for whom he has drawn the costumes of stage since and from 1998, he has conquered different countries in the East of Europe.
In 2001, he was given the distinction of Officier de la Légion d'Honneur and of Chevalier dans l'Ordre des Palmes Académiques while he had received the Ordre National du Mérite and the Ordre des Arts et Lettres in 1989.
Finally, in 2005, he opened in Ginza, the fancy area of Tokyo, the 106th LEONARD boutique in Japan.
ill. : Daniel Tribouillard, C.E.O. of LEONARD (© Léonard. All rights reserved).
The
exhibition will be ambitious and diverse: 131 articles from his women's
collection, 10 items from his men's collection, 15 drawings, 27 panels
of printed fabrics, 4 paintings and many garments (more than 300 objects
are to be exhibited).In 1954, Daniel Tribouillard joined the firm Jacques LEONARD, specialized in creation and marketing of fabrics for the Haute-Couture.
In 1958, Jacques Léonard named him Managing Director and Artistic Director of the newly founded firm LEONARD FASHION which Daniel Tribouillard specialized in the top of the range ready-to-wear.
The young firm is launched thanks to the invention of the fully-fashioned technique, a process allowing to print knit, renowned unprintable pullovers, which had been amazingly successful from the end of the 1950s.
Women are appealed by his drawings and the orchid becomes progressively the emblem of the company.
At the beginning of the 1970s he had the idea to print silk jersey whose stretch, uncrushability and lightness watched the expectations of the modern woman worldwide, especially in Asia and in Japan where he created a collection of kimonos in 1984.
In 1987, Daniel Tribouillard became the Chief Executive Officer of LEONARD and gave a boost to (stimulated) the company with the help of the Italian firm Ratti.
In 1992, he worked out a line of clothes for men and is the first western couturier to organize a fashion parade in Shanghaï where he is named Honoris Causa Professor of the University.
In 1994, LEONARD entered the French confederation of dress making ready-to-wear and fashion designers (Fédération Française de la couture, du prêt-à-porter et des créateurs de mode) and organized the first fashion parade in the Carroussel of the Louvre.
In 1996, he met Johnny Hallyday for whom he has drawn the costumes of stage since and from 1998, he has conquered different countries in the East of Europe.
In 2001, he was given the distinction of Officier de la Légion d'Honneur and of Chevalier dans l'Ordre des Palmes Académiques while he had received the Ordre National du Mérite and the Ordre des Arts et Lettres in 1989.
Finally, in 2005, he opened in Ginza, the fancy area of Tokyo, the 106th LEONARD boutique in Japan.
ill. : Daniel Tribouillard, C.E.O. of LEONARD (© Léonard. All rights reserved).
Scenography is to be theatrical. It is entrusted to Mr Albertini for TERG. The senses will be requested: touch, sight, hearing, sens of smell.
ill. : The Mona Lisa dressed in LEONARD (© LEONARD. All rights reserved).
